That Time of Year Again

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: : 60 miles as the crow flies east of Seattle - Jade Lake : :

The Real Fountain of Youth

Round 2: After bad weather abruptly ended our trip up Mt. Olympus last year, I could hardly wait to see what I'd been missing! The 20+ mile hike in prevents one that wants to stop and eat the berries from a quick weekend return. So Ben and I set aside 4 full days, exactly one year after our initial attempt.
This particular trip for me was much more than simply another climb. Hiking from below 1,000' along a damp rain forest valley floor, then eventually higher to glacial moraine and beyond to the summit at 8,000', gives one an intimate account of the way an ecosystem supports itself and ultimately human life around it.

The Pacific NW has seen above average sun and temperatures this year and because of this, the Blue Glacier has lost all of it's annual snow leaving just the ancient, hard ice. After hearing and seeing all the happy wildlife in the forest, a step onto the glacier is literally stepping onto the source of life! Streams of pure, mineral-rich melt water meandered in all directions on the surface of the glacier. In one spot we discovered a stream gushing into a large glacier moulin that likely reached the lowest depths of the glacier!



A taste from this water, and we had many, is what I would imagine "drinking from the fountain of youth" would taste like! I find it a bit irritating that so many people view this as "unfiltered" when in fact thousands of years of environmental evolution is the shining example of what pureness and wholeness really is!

Eating fresh mountain berries, breathing pure mountain air, and drinking straight from a glacier - I do believe that I have tasted from the Fountain of Youth!

Exploring the Urban Jungle

Previously, when I thought of NYC, I thought of 'big city East Coast'. Then there are some who think of one of the largest cities in the Western World, and of course some think of "Yankees up North".
But I now understand that NYC is not about East, West, North, or South. NYC is about anything and everything, anytime and all the time!

Gear That I Use: Organization

This is the first installment of a mini-series in which I will detail some of the gear I am using out there. As with most activities, it takes years to fine-tune your system and with modern manufacturing, gear options abound.
The root word of packing is 'pack' so I'll start with that:

BD Sphynx 42L Backpack - Sleek, lightweight, and it has a hydration bladder sleeve. What keeps me buying this same model when one wears out, is the homogenous fit that it provides for my back.

OR Pack Liner - If it's going to be wet, this super light liner seals everything out. Plus, you can slip it, full with all your gear, from your soggy pack in one smooth pull after reaching camp. I put my tent (or bivy sack) in the bottom of my pack and pack everything else in the liner above it.

OR Zip Sack - The smallest size holds all of my toiletry and First-Aid items as well as my compass/GPS and most other personal accessories. What makes it special is that it unzips across the top so you can see all of you items with ease.

Granite Gear Stuff Sacks - These are color coordinated, mostly waterproof, and extremely light. I put my extra clothing in one and day snacks in another. If you don't stuff them to the absolute max, you can arrange them easily inside your pack so that every bit of space is used efficiently. Just try to keep the heaviest items closest to your back.

Plastic Baggies - Ahhh, the benefits of Petroleum. These really make the final difference in a well organized pack. Unfortunately I have found that on extended trips, they become more and more difficult to seal. I am looking for a re-usable replacement...

Another Jaw-Dropping Discovery

Mt. Shuksan has always had a special attraction for me. Every side of the mountain has a unique look and every time I am there, I can't help but think of the Swiss Alps. It is also adjacent to the glaciated volcano - Mt. Baker, making the location especially unique on our planet Earth.

The approach begins near Artist Point, where you drop almost a 1000' into a majestic forest valley before climbing back up again and passing the still-frozen, Lake Ann.
Our climbing route, Fisher Chimneys, is an intermediate and beautiful weaving line up the western flank of this very impressive mountain. It entails scrambling up rock and snow gullies, navigating two glaciers, and finally a rock climb on a striking ridge that seems to be above "the whole rest of the world". The downclimb though, is where the real effort is. We got out just after the sun had set on Sunday night following a weekend of pleasant sunrises, exhilarating days, and spectacular sunsets.

-Looking west to a shimmering Pacific Ocean-

-Sunset from the same spot above-

It is this area where a US record snowfall fell in 1998-99. Fortunately for us, that time of year is long gone and cloudless night skies revealed to us the most dazzling display of stars either of us had seen in months! You can tell that the mountains are happy for the change of season too - the color green is on full display as if to say, "wanna come out and play "!

-200' from the summit. Photo courtesy of Jon-

High and Wild

I have just returned from the most unforgettable vacation I have ever experienced - a journey on the Ptarmigan Traverse. Though many say that it looks like a lot of work, I say it is perfect effort and nothing at all like work! For 7 days, 4 good friends and I explored a remote area of North Cascades National Park that only a handful each year see in person.
It started with an early start from Seattle before a long day of gaining the bulk of our elevation. Menacing clouds scattered showers throughout the day and tried to dampen our spirits, but there was no doubt we would be grateful for persisting once they moved on.
After arriving at Kool-Aid Lake for our first camp in the rain, we awoke the next morning to more gloom. The decision was made to stay there for the night again and summit Hurry-Up Peak that day as a primer for things to come.
Day 3 - The clouds began to evaporate as we traversed westward slopes across Red Ledges and up through Spider-Formidable Col. From there we moved across eastern slopes and down to our planned camp at Yang Yang Lakes. Don't ask about the name, I have no idea...

Here we began to really feel the solitude that we craved. 2 days of technical travel would be our only option for exit now and so commitment to our goal was essential.
Day 4 - This was supposed to be a climb of Mt. Formidable and then moving camp to the next location, but the mountain had other plans. 200 feet from the summit, we encountered rapidly melting snow on top of steep rock and with zero options for setting an anchor, we decided it would be prudent for our group of 5 to turn around. Group tension had risen because of the sketchy conditions and so we decided to return to our camp at the lake for a rejuvenating swim in a lake still partially frozen. 4 days without a bath makes this especially appealing!
Day 5 - Feeling strong and charged, we started at 4am for Sentinel and Old Guard Peak. Same story on Sentinel, very close to the summit, loose and unstable snow and rock convinced us to turn our sights to Old Guard. And once on top, the view was captivating and absolutely breath-taking! Monstrous valleys that once contained massive glaciers surrounded the massif we stood at the apex of.
From there we descended westward and then crossed the head of the South Cascade Glacier before aiming for Lizard Pass. On arrival, we saw our final summit goal beckoning with awesome grandeur while below us, the most beautiful back country campsite any of us had ever visited - White Rocks Lake.

Day 6 - Just barely though, we woke up at midnight in preparation for the long day ahead. Traversing on an eastward slope around a large cirque, we witnessed the disappearance of the stars and the rising of the sun. The color of the Dana Glacier just before sunrise was so ethereal that I still have that moment sharply burned in my mind.


It was Monday morning and at the same time as the West Coast was sitting in rush hour traffic, we crested Dome Peak for our final and most spectacular summit view. There we were, above everything but the volcanic hulks (Glacier Peak & Mt. Baker), far from anyone, receiving another reward that still I find so difficult to explain. That must mean that I have found the medicine that I really need: raw elation!

Of course the effort hardly ends there and so after the summit "party", we descended into the valley below. We arrived at camp near Cub Lake ahead of schedule and with the afternoon to kill, we rigged up ropes on a large granite wall just above camp for some fun! Down it's side, a mineral rich waterfall of freshly melted alpine snow and glacier invited us to rappel along side it for another unique experience. During a gorgeous sunset and around a small campfire, we discussed our favorite experiences and talked of future trips.
Day 7 - The day that no one actually wanted to come. Sure, we were tired and a bit hungry but I can honestly say that I didn't have the usual craving for a juicy burger. I had fed myself well and developed an enjoyable mountain routine far away from the predictable structure of American society.
We still had a long ways to go, with the first 4 miles involving demoralizing travel through steep and thick undergrowth and slide alder. The forest road that gives cars access to the Downey Creek TH washed out a couple years ago slowing everybody but the most determined from using that trail. In that time the trail has become even more overgrown than it already was. After about 10 miles of purposeful hiking we finally ran out of food and water making the remaining 11 miles a "silent death march". Once to the car, celebratory yells shattered our silence. We piled into Sasha's truck, 2 in front and 3 in back before driving an hour to the original start point and our other vehicle.
Now - There's a little tear that is begging to come out of my eye in realizing the fact that this trip is over. But mostly I feel really excited to think about the bigger possibilities that this has opened up for the future!

Rain-less in Seattle

Yesterday marked 29 days without rain in Seattle. Yes, I said 'without' rain - 29 full days. This has of course been a pleasant surprise, and has made for beautiful weekends in the mountains despite the rapidly melting snowpack.
For Memorial Day weekend, a jubilant Nick and I drove to Squamish, BC for three days of granite gneiss climbing on the 1,000+ ft walls that tower over this gorgeous community. There is something uniquely satisfying about topping out on a monster wall, just in time for sunset, after climbing up it all day. This was our view (click to enlarge):

Also, two weekends ago my friend Matt and I decided to get on some rumored ice on Eldorado Peak. The unusually high temps (in the 60's) at 7,000 feet made for knee to waist deep snow sloggin' on the approach and gave us some concern over the condition of the supposed ice on our route. The NW Couloir of Eldorado Peak is a moderate grade but almost classic line on the "far side" of one of the most scenic peaks in North Cascades National Park. A 4AM start from camp gave us the time to cross the Inspiration Glacier that smothers the NW side of the peak and to a notch on it's North Ridge. There we rappelled down to another glacier below the route.


The climb went smoothly except for a rude reminder of the reality of the rising temps.
Near the top of our route we were suddenly pummeled with fist to double-fist sized chunks of ice and rock. This is when you duck into the terrain and make yourself as small as possible! This is also where you are reminded of why you lugged the helmet up 6,000 ft. Fortunately, we were left with only a few bruises and shortly afterwards, the summit crest led us to views that exclaimed definitively, the awesome-ness of our very own North Cascades!

Southwest Road Trip'n

Ribbon Falls near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Backpacking down South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon

Exploring Canyonlands National Park, UT

The Alps of Alpental

45 minutes from my front door there is a very popular spot that, although many know about, fewer probably realize how much it contains. Aptly named "Alp-ee" (meaning Alpental Ski Area) by local boarders and skiers, the easy access to deep powder and a variety of rock and ice climbing gives it that American flavored namesake.
My co-worker Ryan who has spent 100+ days a year snowboarding in the state's of Maine and New Hampshire for many years, recently explored this back country and said it was "by far the best terrain I have ever boarded."
Of course there are numerous wonderful places in the world to experience these activities, but 50-mile proximity to a world class city is few and far between. I am very grateful for the opportunity I have to come here!
Also unique, is the view from the summit of one of the areas highest peaks - Chair Peak. It shows you the buildings of downtown Seattle on the edge of Puget Sound, dwarfed from a distance by Olympic Mountain National Park:

Embracing Change

I have always been looking for big answers. And more and more over time, ONE answer. An understanding is what I seek. An understanding of my purpose and my destiny. It's an answer that for so long I believed was always there and I just needed to figure out the right equation. But more and more I feel that this answer isn't exactly there in front of me. An answer is something that is discovered only when there is a question. So perhaps, my "answer" is the question itself. It's as mystifying as that classic wonder of what came first - the chicken or the egg.
Understanding my destiny is understanding my past and maybe the only answer to this perplexing question that I need to understand now, is that anything, any answer is possible. Life is "survival of the fittest" paired with unpredictable "chance", creating that constant and inevitable change.
Only in considering all the possibilities will I find the right questions to ask. Maybe then I will be closer to finding the answers!

Happy New Years!

Four Quick Photos

Ice climbing seracs on Coleman Glacier, Mt. Baker

Cascadian Couloir, Mt. Stuart

Lake Ann near Ingalls Peak, Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Snow Lake, Alpine Lake Wilderness

Knight's Reward

-My girlfriend Ruby summed it up when she said, "It's so beautiful here, I feel like I'm in a fairy tale!" It was true, the terrain defied imagination with it's lush growth and towering, ice plastered peaks. And no myth either, nearby there lay a "dragon" that resisted showing too us, it's face. We would have to climb to the top of a glaciated peak just to get a glimpse of it's tail.
The journey had begun on a cloudy Saturday morning this Labor Day weekend. Four of us, all with a deep thirst for adventure and awe-inspiration, meandered steadily up Hannegan Pass Trail until Ruth Mountain came into view.
Ruth Glacier is a true moderate and perfect for introducing friends to the exciting activity of mountaineering. For such an amazing area, it is surprising more people don't venture to this far away corner of the North Cascades. But then thankfully, the masses have never been the type to seek out unique and remote areas. Only the few, represented as one courageous soul, that knight in shining armor, ever come face to face with the mystery, and only he can claim the beautiful reward that awaits if he perseveres.

-This fairy tale continues with each of us pushing our tiring bodies up Ruth Glacier, still fantasizing of the long-rumored reward that awaited our arrival. Some effort later, our tents went up just 15 feet below the summit while North-Westerly winds tossed clouds and snow at us, as if breath from the dragon. It was giving us the expected fight, and it was up to us to utilize our modern armor to survive the blast.
Early the next morning, while we nourished ourselves with back country style beans and rice, the ancient monster began to show it's rugged face. Clouds scattered to reveal our uncanny camp right on the tip of it's tail. A rightward arcing curve of a narrow and jagged ridge led slowly around a cirque to the bulky body of Mt. Shuksan. A massif of a mountain inspiring all of those brave and persistent adventurers who willingly fight the battles of the human mind and body that prevent so many from even an attempt.
The effort of the battle made the reward even more beautiful than the knight had ever imagined! Now the next battle begins: How would he ever convince people the truth of the glories of his adventure and the worthiness of the battle.

Olympic Gold

As you know, the 2008 Summer Olympics began this weekend over in the Far East. So what a perfect weekend to climb a peak, here in the Far West, named Mt. Olympus: highest mountain in Olympic National Park. "Home of the Gods" to English navigator John Meares, the man who named it in 1778.
Our adventure began deep in the wettest place in the Lower 48: the Hoh Rain Forest. This temperate forest receives a whopping 180 inches of rain each year and up high on the mountain tops, 100 feet of snow! That unlimited volume of water nourishes a broad variety of gorgeous plant and animal life. It also helps the park qualify as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The hike itself is not quite as pleasant though, with over 21 miles to the summit. Scenic hiking along side the glacial-silt tinged Hoh River, and under giant trees curtained in moss eventually give way to a steep and lengthy ascent to base camp at mile 17.5. In a world that is shrinking because of modern technology, it is wonderful to be reminded again of how monstrous it in fact is!


That evening as the air cooled, puffy white clouds turned to classic Cascade drizzle and we began to debate our chance of summit success the next day. But it is a rain forest after all...and so during the flat light of a misty dawn we started up to see what we could achieve. Breaking free of the trees and moving onto glacial moraine the rain-drenched wind pounded away at our spirits and our modern rain gear. Soaked to the core, we reached the massive Blue Glacier that lies within a cirque of alpine summits named after Greek Gods. Here at these heights the weather charges in directly from the Pacific Ocean, unimpeded 1,500 miles from Alaska. With clouds thickening, temperature dropping and winds increasing, it didn't take long to conclude that a campfire sounds better than 7 hours in hypothermic conditions. Live to climb another day and come home stronger and smarter than before.
"The Gods" must have wanted the mountain to themselves that day.....but we are to return in better weather soon!

Three Fingers Reprisal

The first of back-to-back trips found me hiking ten rugged miles to Three Fingers Lookout (two extra due to road washout). Accompanying me were two good friends who had the same itchiness to finish this thing off. You see, last October we had almost arrived when a sudden snowstorm compounded with lightning strikes sent us "running" home! This historic lookout was established by the U.S. Forest Service during the early part of last century for spotting fires within the back country. On the trek up, my mind wandered often to the burliness of past mountain men, who a century ago carried heavy building supplies and telephone wire up this jagged peak. And to think that I sometimes fuss about the moderate weight I have to carry.
But what a worthy spot it is for a building: _atop a narrow spire of rock with glacier to the north and a half-mile drop to the east. There is barely room for the lookout up there. Just beyond the window glass, the mountain falls away abruptly. Any sense of vertigo is promptly overwhelmed by 360 degrees of pure Washington State goodness! ! !

- More photos here and here.

If I Were a Wild Animal

Some might say that I already am one - but if I had four legs this would be me:













Humbling it is to watch these animals romp with recklessness on terrain that I, with all my technical equipment and rope, would very carefully navigate. High in the mountains, and shedding their furry coats, I'm sure these goats are happy summer is here!

Day Hike - Me Like

Pilchuck Lookout. Mt. Si of the North. Whatever you call it, this spectacular alpine summit less than 60 miles north of it's Seattle-area cousin certainly has the cherry on top. A weathered fire lookout originally built in 1918 provides coziness with sweeping panorama's 5,000 feet off the valley floor! It is highly recommended, especially mid-week.

One Revolution at a Time

The issue of Global Warming is clouded by many contradicting facts. One thing is sure though, mankind as a whole is polluting the air, water and earth. It was inevitable and I do not mean to place blame because to some degree we are all on the receiving end of that. We are at a critical turning point where the demands of large populations may soon begin to outweigh what we are capable of producing and protecting. Maybe collaboration and technology will save us but I think greed and stubbornness just might prevent this from fully materializing.
So what is my point: Well, I am making an effort to reduce my impact and I encourage everyone else to do the same. If for no other reason then at least to save money as prices likely won't be dropping! I thought about this reasoning as I rode my mountain bike to the grocery store. In one hour, I enjoyed 45 minutes of invigorating exercise and picked up 40 bucks in groceries. Compare that to the two hours this would have taken if I had driven a car and then came home end exercised. Wow, I just saved 100% on time! And then there is the 10 smackaroos I saved on gas! Why aren't there more people riding along with toilet paper strapped to their pack?

Here is what I got in my day pack:
Chicken Breasts, Medium Cheddar Cheese, PepperJack Cheese, 12 Cage Free Eggs, Annie's Yogurt, Organic Rasberry Lemonade, 2 bags Organic Corn Chips, Emerald Valley Organic Salsa, Emerald Valley Organic Bean Dip, Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes, Fresh Parmesan Cheese, PepperCorn Grinder, 4 Rolls Toilet Paper, Bike Repair Kit and Bike Lock , Fat Tire Ale and some fresh-made Sushi to top it off!

Surfing Westport, USA

- Pro surfers competed in Westport this weekend and the waves were perfect. Here is a clip of some action -

Northward Migration

Feeling like an ant as I drive lonely highways in gigantic terrain near Wrangell -St. Elias National Park

Soakin' it up in the sultry waters of Liard Hot Springs in Northern BC

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Kayaking Tutka Bay

Big Sur Dreamin'

After a pleasant vacation to this spot in March, I can't stop thinking about this sunny delightful west coast haven, precariously placed on the brink of the largest body of water known to man!

- Paradise -

-30F

- Banff, Alberta. Remote beauty with HUGE mountain relief and extreme cold -

Hidden Treasure in North Cascades

Right near the Canadian border is a spot that is rarely discussed and even less photographed. The northern flank of Mt. Shuksan is absolutely stunning and ironically, the opposite side of which is the most photographed in the US. We started at 6AM Thanksgiving day with a great weather forecast. A long hike and cold, wet bushwack ensued. After reaching our camp above Price Lake, we realized our route was not in condition to be climbed. Watching as avalanches poured down the face and seeing the crevasses were covered with weak snowbridges that would never hold the weight of two climbers, we admitted defeat...this time! The Price Glacier is among the most committing routes on a Cascade mountain and needs to be in condition. This route has it all: steep ice climbing, snow-covered rock climbing, glaciers, incredible views and crazy route-finding difficulties, not to mention the 7,700ft. of elevation gain with full packs. Instead we enjoyed turkey jerky and excitedly planned our return in May...

Crossing the North Fork of the Nooksack River. It was super cold in the valley bottom

Our proposed route cuts diagonally across from the left (over my right shoulder). The actual summit pyramid is behind what is visible here. This face rises 7,000 ft. base to summit. You have to exit the ice and gain the rock at the top to bypass a broken part of the the glacier. Matt and I kept mentioning how we "feel like we're in Alaska"! These pics really don't show how intimidating this face really is!

That night the temps neared 15 degrees and the moon was as bright as I've seen

Moment of Zen :

1 x 9 + 2 = 11
12 x 9 + 3 = 111
123 x 9 + 4 = 1111
1234 x 9 + 5 = 11111
12345 x 9 + 6 = 111111
123456 x 9 + 7 = 1111111
1234567 x 9 + 8 = 11111111
12345678 x 9 + 9 = 111111111
123456789 x 9 +10= 1111111111

1 x 1 = 1
11 x 11 = 121
111 x 111 = 12321
1111 x 1111 = 1234321
11111 x 11111 = 123454321
111111 x 111111 = 12345654321
1111111 x 1111111 = 1234567654321
11111111 x 11111111 = 123456787654321
111111111 x 111111111=12345678987654321

Falling for Fall

So I dropped my camera on the Sherpa Peak climb and now I am piddling with a friend's basic camera trying to get a feel. I understand more than ever now how important the right tools are to the artist. Here are a few I've snapped recently (and one from my creative girlfriend):

Battle with the Mind

After chasing Nick at a blistering pace for 4 miles we left the trail abruptly and started the cross-country “climbers trail” section. It was now that I was noticing the sting of the frigid air on my sweaty skin. Keeping one’s self warm yet dry while being highly active is one of the hardest challenges of surviving extreme environments. Forest gives way to sloping boulder fields and scree slopes and day turns to night sprinkled with millions of visible stars. It is here under a monstrous boulder we lay our heads and it is here we enjoy a toasty fire. What a pleasure it is to warm fingers and toes for the cold rock we’ll endure later!

Next light finds us scrambling up a notch to gain the “crest” of the ridge. A running belay is all we need for the next couple hours as we pick and weave our two man team to the crux pitches of the climb. They say first impressions are the most important and that remains true in the mountains. What we saw sent a sharp tingle down my spine. From this point on, falling off would mean falling a thousand feet bouncing and then falling a thousand more onto steep sloping glacier ice. We studied what we could see, munched pemmican bars and checked our time. Once we continue on, we are committed, there would not be enough gear to rappel the route. The only way off this rocky massif would be up and over.

A rappel down to the thinnest ridge crest I have ever climbed and after a balancing traverse Nick took the first lead with style and renewed confidence. Reaching this point in the climb had coincided with us being so directly under this north face that we no longer had what little sun we had relished in before. A benefit of cold numb hands is that on this sharp granite you can’t feel the pains of jamming fists and fingers in cracks. It is hardly a benefit though because you also are left to guess what you are holding and on the drive home, your hands feel like fresh ground beef.

The rest of the climb was defined by big moves made more complicated by our packs. We topped out into the welcoming sunlight much later than we expected. On top is a precariously balanced boulder about 30 feet high. After re-fueling and pondering this oddity of nature, a couple short rappels down the opposite side dropped us into a gully . Here we began the long traverse across to a pass that would take us back down to our warm sleeping bags. This is also where we began to realize just how much more effort the descent required than the climb itself. Neither of us remembered our guide book mentioning the strenuous horizontal crossing of a steep mountainside scattered in vertical rock bands for half of a mile. But then that's why this became adventure and made it onto this blog! …to be continued...

Pics from the Sahale Arm

Pair of Chads on Chair

A clear night high in the mountains always has new rewards. Wednesday night found my roommate Chad and I tucked beneath the east face of Chair Peak, just an hour's drive from Seattle and a 2 hour hike in. With sky's as clear as they had been all year, there we relaxed in our toasty down bags, contemplating the heavens. Chad's knowledge of astronomy guided endless questions about what lay above us. Two hours passed.....over 10 satellites were counted in just a small section of the dark sky. Amazing how much things have quickly changed. Even more amazing, countless falling stars still provide a breath-taking show! Thankfully, our mother nature is of yet still the same and we can still enjoy that work of art capable of humbling even the humblest and inspiring the most-inspired.
A beautiful morning awoke us and we began our journey up the looming rock face .

September 11th is Unique

My birthday has a few rarities involved with the numbering:

• 9+1+1=11
• 254th day of year...2+5+4=11
• After 9/11, there are 111 days
• 'September 11' has 11 digits

Like Sleeping in the Fridge

“Finally!” Nick and I had just finished the long hike in to Dragontail Peak. It’s winter and the forest service road is under snow, adding a few miles to our adventure. Now we focused on drying our boots and warming our hands for tomorrow we’d be glad we had as we made our way up this beautiful peak. Triple Couloirs is among the most desirable of ice climbs in the Cascades, featuring three steep icy couloirs that are connected by rock bands smeared in ice. This is the climbing of my dreams!
Our first view of the route worried us, as there appeared to be less ice than desired. The next morning we started up anyways. Sure enough, it hadn’t gotten warm enough during the daytimes to cause the melt water that freezes into ice. “Oh, well, let’s hit it.” And off I went, slowly and even more precariously. One tool in a corner with two inches of ice, the other hand jammed in a crack in the rock while my feet scraped around for something that could support the weight of me and my pared down pack.

During these times, I have to fight back creeping thoughts that make you doubt climbing altogether. “Here I am, you'd better make it work.” I'd say. Two pitches of this was all we could handle. There was nowhere to place protective gear and we were wasting daylight. So we rapped off to our right and scraped up an alternate line we had scoped earlier.

The long winter night caught us as we finished up more climbing on rock smeared in ice:As we summited, discussion turned to what we had been wondering to ourselves. We had only day packs, no sleeping bags and no stove. The plan was to be back at the base that night, and descending the opposite face of the peak was tricky. Deciding it was too dangerous to rappel an unknown route in windy darkness, we began digging a ledge for the night. This was most certainly the coldest experience of my life. Sitting straight up and on our packs and rope to avoid touching snow, we killed time all night by silently wondering if and when the sun would rise. Winter nights here are as long as they are cold. Light did come, though not in the form of warm sun we had lucidly dreamed of. Still cold and Seattle gray, our stiff legs took us eagerly home. I can hardly wait for new winter experiences!

Mountain of Fire and Ice

As summer fades to fall here in Seattle, I look back and see how incredible this year has been for climbing in the Cascades. Of course , the best is yet to come! Probably the most memorable if not exhausting climb took place the first week of June. Matt, Chris and I paced ourselves up the objectively dangerous Liberty Ridge. This ridge is an intimidating and famous line directly up the North Face of Mt. Rainier.


Considered one of North America's 50 classics, we expected not only a challenge but incredible views of the world around us. Seeing the lights of the Seattle-Tacoma area become visible as the sun fades over the Olympic Mountains and Puget Sound is a unique experience that can only be enjoyed on this side of the mountain in rare good weather.

For three days we enjoyed climbing and sleeping on the dramatic and ever-changing facade of Rainier's north face. Hard to believe that this mountain covered in fractured glaciers hundreds of feet thick, was created by powerful forces pushing hot molten rock out of the depths of the earth.


Upon reaching the top in a blowing storm with zero visibility, awe of our surroundings suddenly changed to the reality of the descent. Have you ever been in a cave and they turned out the lights? If so, you felt how black the color black can be. Ours was just the opposite. Called a white-out, fresh pure snow on top of snow, while in the clouds is so white you only see spots and lose equilibrium. Some group debate and a topo map finally led us down the expansive Emmons Glacier and eventually back to our car that hauled our hungry stomachs to the nearest mexican food restaurant.
"Extra chips and hot sauce please!"

What is Buildering...?

These days there is hardly a sport that hasn't been created out of something. Buildering is one of them, and it plays on the term "bouldering" for rock climbing on boulders. The act of climbing man-made structures is not only illegal but somewhat dangerous since it usually has to be done at night. Seattle offers a myriad of choices. Bridges, antennas, skyscapers, etc. Recently during a full moon, we found adventure while most people slept.

















Can you guess where these pics were taken...?

View from the Edge

The name is intriguing enough. Then you see it. Amongst peaks with scary names in the North Cascades like Torment, Fury, and Formiddable; Forbidden Peak stands out as a mountain with several climbs of classic status and no easy way to the top. The west ridge, which I climbed in July with hardman Chris, is a knife-edge that drops abruptly a couple thousand feet on either side. And that is just part of it, approaching the base is a non-stop hike of near epic proportions.


But the views in good weather, rival any in the Cascades. Upon finally starting up the ridge proper, you are met with a scene of Alaskan scale. A mile below, and beneath the only ice-cap left in the lower 48, Moraine Lake, beckons you as the emerald jewel that it is. Though we were plagued with clouds, a few breaks allowed me to shoot some pics.

Looking North

Looking South

The term 'breath-taking' isn’t truly understood until you've discovered for yourself, a view that captivates your mind and body so completely that you forget the reality from where you came. I am thankful I was allowed the "Forbidden!"

Rappelling Down

Is Rainier Next...?

January through April offers the best climbing on Mt. Hood for the experienced mountaineer. From the rarely done Yocum Ridge or Eliot Headwall, to the popular Sandy Headwall, this time of year is prime time. Now the State of Oregon requires you to carry an electronic locator device (GPS, PLB, or similar device) AND a two-way radio during 3 of those months. Now I will usually bring a GPS, but the idea of being required to bring something that gives you immediate communication to the outside world in a WILDerness is an invasion of liberty and freedom! For myself and many, many climbers, a major attraction to the climbing experience is that complete and full reliance on one's own self and having no communication with anyone else in the world. Some argue that you don't ever have to use it if nothing happens. Others say it is to help reduce rescue costs and ultimately taxes. So what's the big deal...? Well first, the total cost of all NPS rescues averages $3.5m a year with overnight hikers accounting for the biggest percentage. Mountaineers account for only 2% of the number of ALL rescues made (though mountaineering rescues are the second costliest). Compare $3.5m to our government's 2007 spending budget of $2.8 trillion. Second, more idiots with more rescue options will mean more rescues. Look at all the rescues in the Alps. Third, who wants to stuff extra things into an already burdensome pack. And the most important reason we shouldn't tolerate this: it will eventually lead to more regulations in more wilderness!
Thanks Uncle Sam, for letting us use "your" wilderness.

An individual, or at least one individual in a group,
who engages in mountain climbing in the month of
November, December, January, February or March on
Mount Hood at an elevation above 10,000 feet shall
carry a 2-way, electronic communication device AND:
(a) A global positioning system receiver;
(b) A personal locator beacon transmitter;
(c) A Mount Hood mountain locator unit; or
(d) Other comparable device.
Source