3.30.2010

Alaska 2010 - Map Skills Test

Nasty weather abounds in the mountain ranges of Alaska. Specifically, raging winds and disorienting white-outs. So with our first major spring storm rolling in over the Pacific Ocean, we decided to test our skills with an effort to climb and ski from the summit rim of Mt. Rainier.
Map checking was not needed on Saturday as visibility was good in spite of the growing winds. At midnight, we awoke from our half-sleep and checked the weather. Winds were ridiculous at 10K which meant they would be insane at 14K and with zero visibility in the darkness and clouds, we exercised good mountain judgement by crawling back into our cozy down bags.
A few hours later as flat light filtered in, sure enough, we were at the onset of heavy snowfall in 40+mph winds! Would not have been a good time to still be going up...


After stuffing all the miniature comforts of home and glacier gear into our packs, the first items on any trip checklist, topo map and compass, stayed out. Plotting our first bearing downward, we witnessed firsthand the intense magnetic power an active volcano like Rainier attracts as our compass needle wavered slowly back and forth.
Fun little stories like, "I came to a stop on my skis but thought I was still moving, lost my balance and fell over", flourish under these circumstances. Another like "I fell down and suddenly thought I was riding on top of a small slab avalanche" are no fun so this drove us carefully onward.
So much fun and oh how perfect the snow was, if it had only been a sunny day it would have been the best day of the season! But we were there because it won't always be sunny in Alaska.


3.22.2010

Alaska 2010 - Body Armor

Clothing is, of course, critical in an environment of radical temperature fluctuations like AK. On sunny days, the glacier and snow acts like a big mirror and can make it feel like a 90 degree day. On the other hand is below zero temps with 50mph blizzard winds that quickly forces snow and artic air thru any leak in your armor. Stay dry and you can generally stay warm. Sweat-wicking base layers that move moisture away from your skin and dry quickly are essential, as well as a solid wind/waterproof shell that can be vented when you heat up.
The standard expedition clothing system involves these two things as well as a mid layer as "active warmth" and a warm parka to throw over everything for snack breaks, setting up camp, etc.
Here is my packing list for Alaska with a question mark (
?) by the items that could be left behind at Ultima Thule Lodge if deemed unnecessary, and an exclamation mark (!) by the items that I will be wearing as we are dropped off on the glacier:

BASE LAYER
Patagonia Active Sport Boxer Briefs (3 pair)
Icebreaker Merino Wool Boxer Briefs (2 Pair) !
Smartwool Sport NTS Bottoms
Smartwool Midweight Boot-Top Bottoms
Marmot Powerstretch ¾ Bottoms !
Patagonia Capilene 2 Short-Sleeve Crew Top ?
Patagonia Merino 2 Long-Sleeve Crew Top
Outdoor Research Sequence Short Sleeve Zip-Top
Outdoor Research Sequence Long Sleeve Zip-Top !
Patagonia R1 Fleece Pullover !

SHELLS
Marmot Cortina Softshell Pants !
Marmot ROM Softshell Jacket !
Outdoor Research Foray Gore-Tex Jacket
Outdoor Research Trio Gore-Tex Pants

INSULATION
Marmot Flurry Insulated Pants ?
Marmot Baffin Vest ?
Patagonia DAS Parka

HEAD
Outdoor Research Ninjaclava
Shred Alert Beanie !
Lightweight Wool Beanie ?
Fleece Ear Band
Sun Visor

HANDS
Outdoor Research Liner Gloves
Outdoor Research Omni Fleece Gloves !
Marmot Spring Glove ?
Black Diamond Patrol Gloves
Black Diamond Mercury Mitts

FEET
Liner Socks (2 pair)
Smartwool Ski Socks (3 Pair) !

EYES
Julbo Doglan Sunglasses !
Smith I/O Goggles


Big thanks to Yukon Trading Co. of Washington State and Alpin Sales of Colorado for their Marmot clothing contributions!!!

3.09.2010

Alaska 2010 - The Goal


Plan: -Climb and then ski Mt. Bear and Mt. Bona as well as ski mountaineering on the untouched peaks in between. Bear and Bona are about 25 miles straight across from each other and we will likely attempt the larger of the two, Mt. Bona, first!!

Details:--Mt. Bear - 14,831' - 12th highest peak in Alaska
---------.----Mt. Bona
- 16, 421' - 4th highest peak in Alaska
---------.----Wrangell St. Elias NP - Largest National Park in the US

Dates: -May 1st - June 1st, 2010