That Time of Year Again

.
: : 60 miles as the crow flies east of Seattle - Jade Lake : :

The Real Fountain of Youth

Round 2: After bad weather abruptly ended our trip up Mt. Olympus last year, I could hardly wait to see what I'd been missing! The 20+ mile hike in prevents one that wants to stop and eat the berries from a quick weekend return. So Ben and I set aside 4 full days, exactly one year after our initial attempt.
This particular trip for me was much more than simply another climb. Hiking from below 1,000' along a damp rain forest valley floor, then eventually higher to glacial moraine and beyond to the summit at 8,000', gives one an intimate account of the way an ecosystem supports itself and ultimately human life around it.

The Pacific NW has seen above average sun and temperatures this year and because of this, the Blue Glacier has lost all of it's annual snow leaving just the ancient, hard ice. After hearing and seeing all the happy wildlife in the forest, a step onto the glacier is literally stepping onto the source of life! Streams of pure, mineral-rich melt water meandered in all directions on the surface of the glacier. In one spot we discovered a stream gushing into a large glacier moulin that likely reached the lowest depths of the glacier!



A taste from this water, and we had many, is what I would imagine "drinking from the fountain of youth" would taste like! I find it a bit irritating that so many people view this as "unfiltered" when in fact thousands of years of environmental evolution is the shining example of what pureness and wholeness really is!

Eating fresh mountain berries, breathing pure mountain air, and drinking straight from a glacier - I do believe that I have tasted from the Fountain of Youth!

Exploring the Urban Jungle

Previously, when I thought of NYC, I thought of 'big city East Coast'. Then there are some who think of one of the largest cities in the Western World, and of course some think of "Yankees up North".
But I now understand that NYC is not about East, West, North, or South. NYC is about anything and everything, anytime and all the time!

Gear That I Use: Organization

This is the first installment of a mini-series in which I will detail some of the gear I am using out there. As with most activities, it takes years to fine-tune your system and with modern manufacturing, gear options abound.
The root word of packing is 'pack' so I'll start with that:

BD Sphynx 42L Backpack - Sleek, lightweight, and it has a hydration bladder sleeve. What keeps me buying this same model when one wears out, is the homogenous fit that it provides for my back.

OR Pack Liner - If it's going to be wet, this super light liner seals everything out. Plus, you can slip it, full with all your gear, from your soggy pack in one smooth pull after reaching camp. I put my tent (or bivy sack) in the bottom of my pack and pack everything else in the liner above it.

OR Zip Sack - The smallest size holds all of my toiletry and First-Aid items as well as my compass/GPS and most other personal accessories. What makes it special is that it unzips across the top so you can see all of your items with ease.

Granite Gear Stuff Sacks - These are color coordinated, mostly waterproof, and extremely light. I put my extra clothing in one and day snacks in another. If you don't stuff them to the absolute max, you can arrange them easily inside your pack so that every bit of space is used efficiently. Just try to keep the heaviest items closest to your back.

Plastic Baggies - Ahhh, the benefits of Petroleum. These really make the final difference in a well organized pack. Unfortunately I have found that on extended trips, they become more and more difficult to seal. I am looking for a re-usable replacement...

Another Jaw-Dropping Discovery

Mt. Shuksan has always had a special attraction for me. Every side of the mountain has a unique look and every time I am there, I can't help but think of the Swiss Alps. It is also adjacent to the glaciated volcano - Mt. Baker, making the location especially unique on our planet Earth.

The approach begins near Artist Point, where you drop almost a 1000' into a majestic forest valley before climbing back up again and passing the still-frozen, Lake Ann.
Our climbing route, Fisher Chimneys, is an intermediate and beautiful weaving line up the western flank of this very impressive mountain. It entails scrambling up rock and snow gullies, navigating two glaciers, and finally a rock climb on a striking ridge that seems to be above "the whole rest of the world". The downclimb though, is where the real effort is. We got out just after the sun had set on Sunday night following a weekend of pleasant sunrises, exhilarating days, and spectacular sunsets.

-Looking west to a shimmering Pacific Ocean-

-Sunset from the same spot above-

It is this area where a US record snowfall fell in 1998-99. Fortunately for us, that time of year is long gone and cloudless night skies revealed to us the most dazzling display of stars either of us had seen in months! You can tell that the mountains are happy for the change of season too - the color green is on full display as if to say, "wanna come out and play "!

-200' from the summit. Photo courtesy of Jon-

High and Wild

I have just returned from the most unforgettable vacation I have ever experienced - a journey on the Ptarmigan Traverse. Though many say that it looks like a lot of work, I say it is perfect effort and nothing at all like work! For 7 days, 4 good friends and I explored a remote area of North Cascades National Park that only a handful each year see in person.
It started with an early start from Seattle before a long day of gaining the bulk of our elevation. Menacing clouds scattered showers throughout the day and tried to dampen our spirits, but there was no doubt we would be grateful for persisting once they moved on.
After arriving at Kool-Aid Lake for our first camp in the rain, we awoke the next morning to more gloom. The decision was made to stay there for the night again and summit Hurry-Up Peak that day as a primer for things to come.
Day 3 - The clouds began to evaporate as we traversed westward slopes across Red Ledges and up through Spider-Formidable Col. From there we moved across eastern slopes and down to our planned camp at Yang Yang Lakes. Don't ask about the name, I have no idea...

Here we began to really feel the solitude that we craved. 2 days of technical travel would be our only option for exit now and so commitment to our goal was essential.
Day 4 - This was supposed to be a climb of Mt. Formidable and then moving camp to the next location, but the mountain had other plans. 200 feet from the summit, we encountered rapidly melting snow on top of steep rock and with zero options for setting an anchor, we decided it would be prudent for our group of 5 to turn around. Group tension had risen because of the sketchy conditions and so we decided to return to our camp at the lake for a rejuvenating swim in a lake still partially frozen. 4 days without a bath makes this especially appealing!
Day 5 - Feeling strong and charged, we started at 4am for Sentinel and Old Guard Peak. Same story on Sentinel, very close to the summit, loose and unstable snow and rock convinced us to turn our sights to Old Guard. And once on top, the view was captivating and absolutely breath-taking! Monstrous valleys that once contained massive glaciers surrounded the massif we stood at the apex of.
From there we descended westward and then crossed the head of the South Cascade Glacier before aiming for Lizard Pass. On arrival, we saw our final summit goal beckoning with awesome grandeur while below us, the most beautiful back country campsite any of us had ever visited - White Rocks Lake.

Day 6 - Just barely though, we woke up at midnight in preparation for the long day ahead. Traversing on an eastward slope around a large cirque, we witnessed the disappearance of the stars and the rising of the sun. The color of the Dana Glacier just before sunrise was so ethereal that I still have that moment sharply burned in my mind.


It was Monday morning and at the same time as the West Coast was sitting in rush hour traffic, we crested Dome Peak for our final and most spectacular summit view. There we were, above everything but the volcanic hulks (Glacier Peak & Mt. Baker), far from anyone, receiving another reward that still I find so difficult to explain. That must mean that I have found the medicine that I really need: raw elation!

Of course the effort hardly ends there and so after the summit "party", we descended into the valley below. We arrived at camp near Cub Lake ahead of schedule and with the afternoon to kill, we rigged up ropes on a large granite wall just above camp for some fun! Down it's side, a mineral rich waterfall of freshly melted alpine snow and glacier invited us to rappel along side it for another unique experience. During a gorgeous sunset and around a small campfire, we discussed our favorite experiences and talked of future trips.
Day 7 - The day that no one actually wanted to come. Sure, we were tired and a bit hungry but I can honestly say that I didn't have the usual craving for a juicy burger. I had fed myself well and developed an enjoyable mountain routine far away from the predictable structure of American society.
We still had a long ways to go, with the first 4 miles involving demoralizing travel through steep and thick undergrowth and slide alder. The forest road that gives cars access to the Downey Creek TH washed out a couple years ago slowing everybody but the most determined from using that trail. In that time the trail has become even more overgrown than it already was. After about 10 miles of purposeful hiking we finally ran out of food and water making the remaining 11 miles a "silent death march". Once to the car, celebratory yells shattered our silence. We piled into Sasha's truck, 2 in front and 3 in back before driving an hour to the original start point and our other vehicle.
Now - There's a little tear that is begging to come out of my eye in realizing the fact that this trip is over. But mostly I feel really excited to think about the bigger possibilities that this has opened up for the future!

Rain-less in Seattle

Yesterday marked 29 days without rain in Seattle. Yes, I said 'without' rain - 29 full days. This has of course been a pleasant surprise, and has made for beautiful weekends in the mountains despite the rapidly melting snowpack.
For Memorial Day weekend, a jubilant Nick and I drove to Squamish, BC for three days of granite gneiss climbing on the 1,000+ ft walls that tower over this gorgeous community. There is something uniquely satisfying about topping out on a monster wall, just in time for sunset, after climbing up it all day. This was our view (click to enlarge):

Also, two weekends ago my friend Matt and I decided to get on some rumored ice on Eldorado Peak. The unusually high temps (in the 60's) at 7,000 feet made for knee to waist deep snow sloggin' on the approach and gave us some concern over the condition of the supposed ice on our route. The NW Couloir of Eldorado Peak is a moderate grade but almost classic line on the "far side" of one of the most scenic peaks in North Cascades National Park. A 4AM start from camp gave us the time to cross the Inspiration Glacier that smothers the NW side of the peak and to a notch on it's North Ridge. There we rappelled down to another glacier below the route.


The climb went smoothly except for a rude reminder of the reality of the rising temps.
Near the top of our route we were suddenly pummeled with fist to double-fist sized chunks of ice and rock. This is when you duck into the terrain and make yourself as small as possible! This is also where you are reminded of why you lugged the helmet up 6,000 ft. Fortunately, we were left with only a few bruises and shortly afterwards, the summit crest led us to views that exclaimed definitively, the awesome-ness of our very own North Cascades!

Southwest Road Trip'n

Ribbon Falls near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Backpacking down South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon

Exploring Canyonlands National Park, UT

The Alps of Alpental

45 minutes from my front door there is a very popular spot that, although many know about, fewer probably realize how much it contains. Aptly named "Alp-ee" (meaning Alpental Ski Area) by local boarders and skiers, the easy access to deep powder and a variety of rock and ice climbing gives it that American flavored namesake.
My co-worker Ryan who has spent 100+ days a year snowboarding in the state's of Maine and New Hampshire for many years, recently explored this back country and said it was "by far the best terrain I have ever boarded."
Of course there are numerous wonderful places in the world to experience these activities, but 50-mile proximity to a world class city is few and far between. I am very grateful for the opportunity I have to come here!
Also unique, is the view from the summit of one of the areas highest peaks - Chair Peak. It shows you the buildings of downtown Seattle on the edge of Puget Sound, dwarfed from a distance by Olympic Mountain National Park: