For Memorial Day weekend, a jubilant Nick and I drove to Squamish, BC for three days of granite gneiss climbing on the 1,000+ ft walls that tower over this gorgeous community. There is something uniquely satisfying about topping out on a monster wall, just in time for sunset, after climbing up it all day. This was our view (click to enlarge):
Also, two weekends ago my friend Matt and I decided to get on some rumored ice on Eldorado Peak. The unusually high temps (in the 60's) at 7,000 feet made for knee to waist deep snow sloggin' on the approach and gave us some concern over the condition of the supposed ice on our route. The NW Couloir of Eldorado Peak is a moderate grade but almost classic line on the "far side" of one of the most scenic peaks in North Cascades National Park. A 4AM start from camp gave us the time to cross the Inspiration Glacier that smothers the NW side of the peak and to a notch on it's North Ridge. There we rappelled down to another glacier below the route.
The climb went smoothly except for a rude reminder of the reality of the rising temps.
Near the top of our route we were suddenly pummeled with fist to double-fist sized chunks of ice and rock. This is when you duck into the terrain and make yourself as small as possible! This is also where you are reminded of why you lugged the helmet up 6,000 ft. Fortunately, we were left with only a few bruises and shortly afterwards, the summit crest led us to views that exclaimed definitively, the awesome-ness of our very own North Cascades!
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