High and Wild

I have just returned from the most unforgettable vacation I have ever experienced - a journey on the Ptarmigan Traverse. Though many say that it looks like a lot of work, I say it is perfect effort and nothing at all like work! For 7 days, 4 good friends and I explored a remote area of North Cascades National Park that only a handful each year see in person.
It started with an early start from Seattle before a long day of gaining the bulk of our elevation. Menacing clouds scattered showers throughout the day and tried to dampen our spirits, but there was no doubt we would be grateful for persisting once they moved on.
After arriving at Kool-Aid Lake for our first camp in the rain, we awoke the next morning to more gloom. The decision was made to stay there for the night again and summit Hurry-Up Peak that day as a primer for things to come.
Day 3 - The clouds began to evaporate as we traversed westward slopes across Red Ledges and up through Spider-Formidable Col. From there we moved across eastern slopes and down to our planned camp at Yang Yang Lakes. Don't ask about the name, I have no idea...

Here we began to really feel the solitude that we craved. 2 days of technical travel would be our only option for exit now and so commitment to our goal was essential.
Day 4 - This was supposed to be a climb of Mt. Formidable and then moving camp to the next location, but the mountain had other plans. 200 feet from the summit, we encountered rapidly melting snow on top of steep rock and with zero options for setting an anchor, we decided it would be prudent for our group of 5 to turn around. Group tension had risen because of the sketchy conditions and so we decided to return to our camp at the lake for a rejuvenating swim in a lake still partially frozen. 4 days without a bath makes this especially appealing!
Day 5 - Feeling strong and charged, we started at 4am for Sentinel and Old Guard Peak. Same story on Sentinel, very close to the summit, loose and unstable snow and rock convinced us to turn our sights to Old Guard. And once on top, the view was captivating and absolutely breath-taking! Monstrous valleys that once contained massive glaciers surrounded the massif we stood at the apex of.
From there we descended westward and then crossed the head of the South Cascade Glacier before aiming for Lizard Pass. On arrival, we saw our final summit goal beckoning with awesome grandeur while below us, the most beautiful back country campsite any of us had ever visited - White Rocks Lake.

Day 6 - Just barely though, we woke up at midnight in preparation for the long day ahead. Traversing on an eastward slope around a large cirque, we witnessed the disappearance of the stars and the rising of the sun. The color of the Dana Glacier just before sunrise was so ethereal that I still have that moment sharply burned in my mind.


It was Monday morning and at the same time as the West Coast was sitting in rush hour traffic, we crested Dome Peak for our final and most spectacular summit view. There we were, above everything but the volcanic hulks (Glacier Peak & Mt. Baker), far from anyone, receiving another reward that still I find so difficult to explain. That must mean that I have found the medicine that I really need: raw elation!

Of course the effort hardly ends there and so after the summit "party", we descended into the valley below. We arrived at camp near Cub Lake ahead of schedule and with the afternoon to kill, we rigged up ropes on a large granite wall just above camp for some fun! Down it's side, a mineral rich waterfall of freshly melted alpine snow and glacier invited us to rappel along side it for another unique experience. During a gorgeous sunset and around a small campfire, we discussed our favorite experiences and talked of future trips.
Day 7 - The day that no one actually wanted to come. Sure, we were tired and a bit hungry but I can honestly say that I didn't have the usual craving for a juicy burger. I had fed myself well and developed an enjoyable mountain routine far away from the predictable structure of American society.
We still had a long ways to go, with the first 4 miles involving demoralizing travel through steep and thick undergrowth and slide alder. The forest road that gives cars access to the Downey Creek TH washed out a couple years ago slowing everybody but the most determined from using that trail. In that time the trail has become even more overgrown than it already was. After about 10 miles of purposeful hiking we finally ran out of food and water making the remaining 11 miles a "silent death march". Once to the car, celebratory yells shattered our silence. We piled into Sasha's truck, 2 in front and 3 in back before driving an hour to the original start point and our other vehicle.
Now - There's a little tear that is begging to come out of my eye in realizing the fact that this trip is over. But mostly I feel really excited to think about the bigger possibilities that this has opened up for the future!